Brand Snapshot | Tempest – Riccardo Tisci presents his Autumn/Winter 19 Collection for Burberry
Riccardo Tisci presented his Autumn/Winter 2019 show for Burberry on Sunday. The collection was unveiled in between two contrasting bespoke show environments within the Tate Modern Tanks.
Taking inspiration from the contrasts in British culture and weather, from the structured to the rebellious, the collection evolves the cues and codes first set out in Riccardo’s debut collection for Burberry last year and celebrates the two very different worlds and the individuals they represent. The collection continues to evolve the Burberry characters first introduced in September – the girl, the boy, the lady and the gentleman.
The show environment explored the idea of contrast and perspective, the same collection presented in two very separate environments. One, more structured, traditional and formal with severe, angular and rigid wood seating set above a dimly lit runway. The other was more rebellious, brutalist and real, and in stark contrast played host to over 100 youths who scaled the walls in a representation of Riccardo’s drive for freedom and inclusivity.
The music was designed exclusively by M.I.A. with two bespoke soundscapes that took the two audiences on a journey from the 90s to the present day, referencing contrasting genres of music.
“What’s Past is Prologue”
Walpole CEO Helen Brocklebank was there: “Tempest was a deft, masterly development of the new Burberry story, an exuberant paean to British youth culture, past and present, as well as a thoughtful analysis of the contradictory, maverick sensibility of British luxury. It is a sign of his skill and confidence as a designer that Tisci is able to both showcase and subvert the strong Burberry house codes in a collection of 106 looks that effortlessly traversed streetstyle, sports-luxe and aristocratic elegance. Tisci’s ability to do both high and low, coupled with British class and culture, is proving to be a potent mix.
Things to note:
The Union Jack parachute coat: part duvet, part parachute, it has been one of the most talked about looks on social media with no one resisting the temptation to read it as cultural and political commentary.
Coloured tights: invest in them now – black opaques are over, colourful hosiery will offer an easy wardrobe update this autumn. I’m first in line for the orange ones.
Warmth: classic trench coats with a new TB logo blanket cape attached, tailored cashmere jackets with down filled padded gilets, hygge faux fur, skull-cap cashmere beanies… this was a covetable collection that built strongly on Burberry’s outerwear heritage
The Rime of the Ancient Mariner: Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s most famous poem printed onto the back of a satin cape… what does it all mean? Between that and a soundtrack that opened with the ITN News at Ten theme, newsbites about the government’s 1994 clampdown on rave culture, and the KLF burning a million pounds, all against Drill, Grime and immersive club-beats… I absolutely loved the brave new Burberry world that has such creatures in it.”