London and Tokyo may be separated by some 6,000 miles, but the two capitals have plenty in common. Both sit at the heart of island nations with rich cultural histories set apart from larger continents, with long-standing monarchies, and a predilection for social values rooted in modesty and perseverance (a stiff upper lip – or gaman culture, the closest equivalent in Japan). Both places also boast a history of quality manufacturing – just as Made in Japan telegraphs a certain calibre of product when shopping for something special in the UK, so too does Made in Britain when you see it in Japan. And if there’s something Japan’s sharp-dressed luxury consumers are looking for, it’s quality.
Satoshi Yoshida, a senior overseas business manager at a Tokyo-based fashion company with close ties to the UK market, says customers here value brands that have heritage, and will make the effort to seek out products that put a focus on craftsmanship.
"It’s not just about luxury; well-made, quality items are pretty well received in Japanese culture," he says. "People in Japan usually appreciate the quality of the clothing or quality of the product anyway, and become more conscious of it as they mature. They want things with quality and history, and British products offer that. It’s really quite simple: it’s about trust."
Then, there’s the conundrum of the language barrier. Japan is the world’s third-largest economy, and English is widely taught in schools across the country from a young age, but its stagnant lack of proficiency at the language is a notorious sore point, and Japan consistently ranks as having some of the poorest English ability in developed nations. Despite this – or perhaps because of it – speaking English well is perceived as a major marker of privilege and status in Japan, which in turn influences consumer behaviour.
"I’d say Japanese people have a bit of envy when it comes to English culture, and this definitely plays a part in our view of British luxury," says Yoshida. That discontent breeds a kind of subversive reverence, where the status associated with English rubs off on British products, lending everything from clothes to food a kind of built-in foreign appeal. There’s an appreciation for classically ‘British’ tropes, too, which is why you’ll see quintessentially British brand Fortnum & Mason with numerous outposts across Japan offering Earl Grey tea and scones, or Wedgwood concessions selling fine china in Tokyo’s well-heeled department stores.
Smart British brands can play to these consumer quirks by hamming up their heritage (and their manufacturing chops if they have them), but also by putting a focus on luxury as a trustworthy investment. Building a reputation for product that lasts is a key way for brands to stand out, even among Japan’s young trendsetters, who aren’t afraid to spend big if it’s on the right item.
Shunki Goto, a 22-year-old hair stylist assistant at Runo, a fashionable salon in Tokyo’s affluent Minami-Aoyama district, saves up his wages for one thing: British shoes. "I got interested in British shoes because I was looking for something that was comfortable to wear, beautiful to look at and high quality," he says. His search led him to Church’s, John Lobb and Edward Green. "I went to a department store to look at some Edward Green loafers, and I thought that level of quality was really cool," he says. Goto wears his polished shoes with smart black pleated slacks, but says they also look great with his Dickies work trousers.
"In Japan, I think we have an image that businessmen in England wear shoes because they’re good quality rather than just because they’re fashionable, and I like that idea," says Goto, who values his British shoe collection as a kind of proof that he takes pride in his appearance, even when he’s otherwise dressed in casual clothing. "I see it as a way to take care of myself."
