Sabyasachi Mukherjee on what the world can learn from Indian luxury

Sabyasachi Mukherjee will be in conversation with Divia Thani, Global Editorial Director of Condé Nast Traveller, at the upcoming Walpole British Luxury Summit on Thursday 15th May 2025, speaking about the couturier's journey and future plans while uncovering the latest insights on the South Asian luxury customer.

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Walpole: Your brand is deeply rooted in Indian heritage – how do you balance tradition with global luxury expectations?

Sabyasachi Mukherjee: I am an old soul – I naturally gravitate towards using heritage textiles and crafts, but I'm personally a modernist. For culture to be relevant it must be dynamic; for heritage to be relevant it needs to fit modernity. We balance these elements in our designs: if the textiles and the fabrications are heritage-leaning, then the silhouettes are extremely modern. 

Tell me about a challenge you have faced as an Indian designer taking your brand global – and how did you overcome this?

The greatest challenge is growing mindfully. Creating a luxury brand is a slow burn and cannot be rushed, or it will just as quickly fade away like a fashion trend. The values and legacy of the brand, all the intangibles that establish authenticity and expound on tradition must be shared with clients to differentiate value from commodity. You must seed the brand before the business can grow.

It took 25 years to solidify Sabyasachi as the premier brand in India – unparalleled in design and execution. Internationally, we must be just as patient to ensure our rightful place as a global brand of consequence with a reputation for the highest quality.

How do you think Western audiences perceive Indian luxury and how are you shaping the narrative?

India has an incredibly rich legacy of handwoven textiles, embroidery, and artisanal techniques that have been passed down through generations. By integrating these into my creations, I strive to honor the artistry of our craftspeople and ensure their skills are preserved and celebrated on a global stage.

Sabyasachi represents storytelling, heritage, and craftsmanship – all values that transcend borders. The West has always admired the richness of our culture, and I saw a unique opportunity to introduce an Indian voice to the global luxury market. What sets me apart is my ability to synthesise our traditions and crafts from local artisans to make them relevant for the modern world. 

Your beauty collaboration with Estée Lauder really resonated in Europe. What do you think made this collection such a success?

The collection we did with Estée Lauder had a very old world feel to it – the way classic beauty products were sold in Paris before the industry became over-commercialised – and the packaging was beautifully designed. There were cultural and qualitative inputs that went into the product: from the naming and storytelling around the colours to the very nuanced fragrance within the lipstick. We created a nostalgia for a forgotten beauty experience fondly remembered by European clients. 

You've described the collection at Bergdorf (pictured above) as being both 'classic and outrageous' – what does that duality represent for you in the content of New York luxury?

The Sabyasachi brand has always played with duality: minimal and maximal, traditional and modern, classic and outrageous. We believe for heritage to be relevant, it needs to be dynamic. We draw from the past but follow the zeitgeist to modernise our products and stay ever-relevant. Sabyasachi is a bridge of culture and tradition to modernity that empowers all global citizens. 

Did you need to adapt your brand to launch it at Bergdorf Goodman for the American customer?

The only difference in consideration is the weather and occasion, but the quality, design inspiration, and language is all the same. At Bergdorf's, we considered a colder climate and heavier fabrications. In India, special occasion mostly means bridal; but in NYC, we are opening opportunities to dress people for daily, event and formal dressing in non-traditional style that still embraces quality, heritage and craftsmanship. 

You've said before, 'Don't teach India luxury, there's a lot that India can teach the world.' Could you expand on what you think the West can learn from Indian luxury?

India will teach the world about value. Luxury is more than just expense, it must inherently be rare, authentic and demonstrate provenance. Value is created and preserved by educating people about product and culture. Sabyasachi has always platformed Indian luxury in its highest form, using these opportunities to educate consumers about the sophistication of Indian craft, its link to the past, and importance for the future ensures. Our brand mandates constant training programs with our retail associates and meaningful advertising that conveys a message of culture, not just product.

Your recent 25th anniversary fashion show in Mumbai transformed the Jio World Convention Centre into Old Calcutta. What was your inspiration behind this?

I come from Calcutta and I've always appreciated craft because it's a part of our living tradition. We consume craft in Calcutta because it is a city with a soul – an inherent understanding for tradition, quality, art and authenticity. Some towns are smart, and others are wise; Calcutta is incredibly wise. Who you are and what you do is defined by where you live and what surrounds you. So Sabyasachi will always be a brand that promotes craft because it is rooted in Calcutta. Having the wisdom of 50 years of life, when I look at the world, I see India's unique positioning in the craft community and in the global art collective. I realise that true luxury can only be created through craftsmanship. I'm more committed to honing the skills of my craftsman and challenging them to elevate their trade to untouchable heights.

What's next for the Sabyasachi brand?

Expansion of the jewellery and accessories business will be a priority for us. As I have travelled around the world and visited numerous ateliers, I have validated my opinion that the craftsmanship of Indian product is unparalleled. We will use those skills and quality of details to create something truly modern and global – of towering consequence worldwide. We rival the best brands in the world today because customers are only focusing on buying unique pieces with quality and personality. In addition, we are actively discussing launching a fragrance and beauty line, and entering the eyewear business. These expansions align with our vision of bringing India’s best to the world while diversifying our portfolio.

Learn more about Sabyaschi