Last night in London's Victoria Park, Burberry erected its now-iconic tent to show Daniel Lee's third collection for the storied British fashion house. After the flurry of VIPs had taken their seats on the front row – including Joanna Lumley, Cara Delevigne, Jourdan Dunn and Skepta (who arrived in a custom green Rolls-Royce) – the lights came up on a catwalk that oozed British glamour and outdoorsy elegance.
Marching out to an Amy Winehouse soundtrack, models sported a generous selection of outwear, with Lee remixing traditional shapes in his signature style: Burberry trenches appeared in moleskin or trimmed with shearling, alongside duffle coats and field jackets. Women's skirts, often in tartan, skimmed the floor. Prints were taken from the archive, but also spotlighted the Equestrian Knight logo that has already become synonymous with Lee's tenure – not to mention his instantly recognisable 'Knight Blue', currently being stunningly showcased at Burberry's Harrods takeover, which was seen in flashes on soles of the extensive shoe collection. Colours were earthy, natural and warm with khaki green and pebble grey being the predominant tones, with pops of raspberry red, blue and beige deployed for interest.
Beyond the clothes themselves, traditional craft and techniques from Donegal to Lochcarron inspired the construction, fabric and detailing, and the cashmere scarves – frequently seen tied around models as headscarves in a style favoured by the late Queen – were crafted by fellow Walpole member, Johnstons of Elgin.
“With wool, cashmere, shearling and riffs on the iconic trench, Daniel Lee’s third collection for Burberry owned the Great British outdoors," says Helen Brocklebank, Walpole Chief Executive. "Cosiness has never looked this chic."
> See every look from the Burberry Autumn Winter 2024 show below.