While a quaint sense of Englishness has a certain appeal, diversity – in every sense of the word – and London’s position as a global city, is the main draw for well-heeled Khaleeji shoppers. Dubai and Doha have some of the most exceptional shopping experiences in the world, but the variety of products available in UK stores (and a slightly better value proposition) means many people find that it’s worth the trip. Something picked up on a jaunt down Bond Street also boasts bragging rights; a casually uttered, “Oh, I got it in London,” confers an air of international sophistication.
Of course, many of the luxury houses that Middle Eastern shoppers flock to are Italian or French (note the queues outside Chanel and Hermès), so why do they prefer to shop in London rather than Milan or Paris, especially now that the tax-free shopping scheme has been scrapped? One word: service. A welcoming, personal approach is a key factor.
“As GCC citizens, when you walk into a store in London you’re generally made to feel extremely welcome and there are usually Arabic-speaking sales people who take the time to understand your requirements,” says a prominent Kuwaiti interior designer. “They’ll share their WhatsApp number, send regular updates and make you feel like a valued customer. That only happens in London. In Paris it’s the complete opposite: they barely even look at us. If anything, they just don’t want to serve you.”
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In good news for niche British brands, top-tier GCC shoppers aren’t just looking for this season’s It products; the Gucci effect is waning as a more discerning set are on the hunt for unusual, high-quality pieces with longevity. In short, they want something special, preferably handmade and limited edition. That doesn’t just mean an oud-soaked spin on a fragrance or a Ramadan capsule collection. Both are appreciated if they are done thoughtfully, but the new, younger breed of GGC customer is searching for the exceptional, whatever the season.
Gone are the days when whole families would descend upon a department store and were willing to buy almost anything without knowing much about it; Khaleeji clients are now very well informed and often underestimated in terms of their levels of aspiration and refinement. Just as Aston Martin, McLaren Automotive, Bentley and Rolls-Royce are beloved car marques in the Gulf, the idea of quality British-made goods (bespoke tailoring, fine tea blends, timeless handbags) is a seductive proposition.
“I think Middle Eastern consumers are completely aware nowadays in terms of where they want to spend,” a thirtysomething Emirati businesswoman comments. “Despite the stereotypes, they don’t just go for things that are heavily branded. In fact, if something is very high quality and not branded, they’re willing to spend more on that than on something that has a ubiquitous brand name.”
The staggering success of ultra-luxe Italian clothier Loro Piana is a case in point; after a high-profile sheikh commented on the quality of the fabric on social media, sales of menswear boomed. So how can a British brand boost awareness of its high-end wares without serendipitous royal endorsement? Confidently demonstrating a commitment to the region and building relationships with intimate, curated events in the Gulf is a worthwhile investment.
When a rush of brands first began targeting the Middle East, the offering veered toward the generic and mildly condescending, but then the smart ones began creating campaigns and products specifically for the GCC and having memorable in-store events and dinners. Those that move beyond traditional advertising tap into the culture to understand the nuances and spend time getting to know the customers really thrive. The smart brands are thinking in a nuanced way about the cultural norms across the region and offering experiences that match the setting – what works in Doha may not have the same resonance in Riyadh or Abu Dhabi.
Coming back to the subject of elevated service levels, smaller companies with a loyal Middle Eastern customer base that don’t have a bricks and mortar presence in the region would be wise to think about how they could still offer personal shopping services.
“If I bought leather goods in London, I would love that brand to tell me, ‘By the way, if you ever need maintenance for the piece or help sourcing more, we have someone in Riyadh who can assist you with whatever you need,’” suggests a style maven who is based in the Saudi capital. “That trust, that level of customer service would encourage me to spend more and get another piece for my friend, or my sister and my family. That relationship is what Middle Eastern people always look for.”
Talib Choudhry is Editor-in-Chief for Architectural Digest Middle East. He was previously Design & Interiors Editor for Telegraph Magazine and is author of The New Creative Home: London Style.
