Walpole: What is it that you think sets London Fashion Week apart from all the other international fashion weeks?
Caroline Rush CBE: London is the creative capital of the international Fashion Weeks. Creative freedom is inherent in the UK; our art schools are world leading and our designers, the majority alum of our art school system, are world leaders in creativity. They push the boundaries in design, but also in terms of sustainability and championing diversity.
LFW has always been known for showcasing emerging designers who then go-on to take over the world – a crucial element to our country’s cultural soft power on the global stage. What initiatives at the BFC do you run to ensure Britain keeps nurturing cutting-edge design talent?
This year is a celebration of 30 years of our NewGen programme. Over 300 businesses have been through the programme, and some of the most highly anticipated shows at London Fashion Week have come through the NewGen programme. Today, the NewGen programme offers support to show at London Fashion Week, from a venue to a contribution towards the collection. It also offers a detailed mentoring programme to understand all business verticals and business essentials from IP to cashflow, to merchandising, production, communications and sales.
Our BFC Foundation also helps fund programmes including the BFC Fashion Trust, the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and the BFC/GQ Menswear Fund.
Have you seen any ways that younger designers might be thinking differently than their predecessors about they run their brands – and how is that affecting what their goals in building a brand are?
Sustainability is front of mind for today’s brands and that sense of responsibility means that their ideals of growth and success are framed very differently. They are becoming less reliant on wholesale, although key wholesale partners are important, they also want to have direct relationships with their customers, their community.
Perhaps it’s the legacy of Vivienne Westwood, but it feels like fashion is becoming more rebellious once again. Who are some of your favourite emerging designers on the LFW schedule who have interesting and important points of view?
There are too many, but a flavour of the diversity of talent and perspective would include Saul Nash, the winner of our QEII Award for British Design last year. His presentations often include performance – his films are reflections of the community in which he lives and works, and are often powerful moments. SS Daley (our BFC Foundation Fashion Awards Winner last year), again, often stages a presentation with an element of performance – so there's great expectation there. Connor Ives, whi has strong sustainable values. Chet Lo for his energy and clearly identifiable fabrication. Finally, Ahluwalia [whose AW23 collection is pictured above]; a brand which is really building a strong brand identity and is in high demand for collaborative projects right now.
Are there any events off the catwalk that are open for the public to attend – and which of these would you really recommend?
There are over 450, all available at londonfashionweek.co.uk.
Beyond the catwalks, which territories are increasingly sending their buyers to London Fashion Week?
France, Italy, the US, and South Korea are all key territories.
This season is Daniel Lee’s debut for Burberry. What are you hoping he brings to the house?
There is a great deal of excitement about Daniel’s first collection. He will bring a very different aesthetic from [fomer Burberry Chief Creative Officer, Riccardo Tisci], and I am sure that it will be a great success. He is a well-respected designer and I hear that the team are really enjoying working with him.
London Fashion Week AW23 runs until Tuesday 21 February 2023. britishfashioncouncil.co.uk
